This is one I have been trying to figure out for years. It wasn't until I really took the time to get into the electronics of the 986, that I was finally able to figure it out. I won't be doing this mod anytime soon, so it has not been tested, but I wanted to share, since I find some of the other heated seat directions that use OEM switches to be very confusing. Since this is untested, use these instructions at your own discretion, I take no responsibility for whether this will work on not, but I think it should.
Lift tickets are so expensive these days, I finally caved and bought a season pass for some spring skiing. To take my mind off of much a season pass costs, I installed my RTS (Roof Transport System), along with a new Porsche Ski Rack. I bought the rack last year but had never installed it before. It fits the horizantal bar rails perfectly, since it was made to pair with all Porsche roof racks. The only modification I need to make is that only one side of the rack is clamped down to the rails, so it rattles when empty. I need to slip a neoprene washer or some felt on the other end. I also like that this rack catches a lot less wind than my ski box, which is top heavy and ruins the handling.
Last week I helped a family member move, which delayed wrapping up my Boxster detail by a few days. Since I have been on a detailing kick this summer, I decided to do a quick detail on their car since they where leaving a garage behind for outdoor covered parking. The interior was off limits and loaded with boxes, but I did do what I could to take care of the paint and exterior.
My 2-week 986 detail is now complete. After allowing the touch-up paint to cure for 3 days, I applied a coat of Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant to the entire car. The sealant requires at least 12 hours to cure between coats. I applied 3 coats which took 2 days, then finished with a coat of Collinite 845 liquid wax. I applied the sealant and wax by hand using a pad grip with a 4" red foam pad. I may look into a slightly less absorbent pad to use in the future, because the pad absorbed a lot of the product, but besides that it is a straight forward application.
Today, I started to work on the various chips and scratches around the car. After my bad experience with the OEM touch-up paint almost 10 years ago, I have avoided doing any more touch-up repairs. However, I saw Dr. Colorchip mentioned online as a good touch-up solution, so I purchased one of their kits.
I had removed the hardtop while I worked on the body of the car due to the 1-2" overhang around the clamshell. Once reinstalled, the top presents a few challenges. First, my hardtop has several scratches from the previous owner who had stored the top without a cover, and then leaned a ladder up against it. When I purchased it almost 10 years ago, I used OEM Porsche Touch Up Paint to try and repair the damage, and did an very poor job. I made the scratches much, much worse, including installing more scratches when I attempted to wet sand the touchup paint.
As I mentioned before, I severely under estimated the time required to do a two step paint correction. I just finished, and I would say I spent about 12 hours total on the paint. Compounding was fairly straightforward, and worked well using the microfiber cutting discs and D300 compound. However, I found the thin 5" pads are difficult to use everywhere other than the hood, as almost every panel of the 986 is curved. Even the door panels have a concave curve that made using the thin pads troublesome. I think I will probably use an orange foam pad next time. As a beginner, I think the thicker pad will be more forgiving and easier to use, which will help me achieve better results.
Let me start by saying, I totally underestimated the amount of work a two step paint correction would be. I started very slowly and have been taking my time. I started by cleaning the panel with Optimum Paint Prep to make sure there was nothing on the panel that could get into a microfiber or foam pads and cause scratches. I then tested a white foam polishing pad with Menzerna SF3500 finishing polish. It took out a lot of the minor scratches, but was not taking out the bigger ones. After that first test, I felt confident I was not dealing with soft paint, so I went to a microfiber cutting pad with D300 compound.
I decided yesterday that I needed to include my hardtop in this detail instead of doing it later. After installing it on the car I performed another strip wash with car soap and dawn, and used a clay bar to remove any contaminates from the hard top. I was surprised by how much came off the front of the hardtop, although it makes sense since the top is arched.
During the week I had a little spare time, so I decided to work on the rear Boxster emblem. This emblem has been incredibly frustrating to keep clean, and I have thought about removing it completely, but I am not a fan of the de-badged look. My emblem had a lot of wax and other gunk in it, and simply washing it had not done anything to clean it up.
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