7/8/2017 Detail Day 4 - interiorI did not have a ton of time today, but I did some work on the interior. I reinstalled all of the carpet and the floor mats, then wiped down the entire interior using a damn microfiber cloth to pickup any dirt or dust. I paid special attention to the painted center console, which had some things hardened on the surface. Once everything was clean I applied Spritz Sealant (similar to a spray wax) to a foam applicator pad and applied it to the painted center console and painted roll bar. While not necessary, I lightly wiped/buffed the painted surfaces after a few minutes. Next I used 303 Protectant and an applicator pad to apply a light coat of 303 to all of the leather and plastic surfaces, excluding the shifter boot, steering wheel, and seats. I recently learned that Porsche uses a special drying process on leather that is not regularly handled (basically everything that isn't the seats, steering wheel, or shifter boot), and that using a conditioner can rehydrate the leather and cause defects, like wrinkles. I wiped the 303 after it was applied, to leave a nice matte finish.
Next I turned my attention to the immobilizer under the driver's seat. While I keep my drains clean to avoid water overflow into the cabin that can damage the immobilizer, and have 987 drain guards installed, I decided to place the immobilizer in a plastic bag to add some additional protection. I loosened the plastic retaining screw, slipped the immobilizer into the bag, zip tied the bag shut, then wrapped the opening in plastic stretch wrap to create a better seal around the wiring. I then re-insalled the unit being careful not to puncture the plastic bag. This took less than 5 minutes and provides some free insurance against a costly repair. If you are interested in a less ghetto solution, ECU Doctors sells a waterproof case for the immobilizer, but I think it is too expensive and I do not like that the wiring harness must be covered in silicone. I also removed the hood crest, because I wanted to give it some special attention, and it will be easier to polish the hood with the crest removed. My crest was in better shape than I thought, but there was a lot of dried wax on it, in the little edges and grooves. I used one of my fine-tip touch up applicators with wax remover to agitate and remove the dried on wax (a small paint brush would also work). Once the wax was off and the crest was clean, I applied a few coats of spray sealant, because it dries clear. With the exception of a few small blemishes I would say the crest is 90%, which is great because it is the one component I never want to replace. Comments are closed.
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